For 28 days during the summer of 2010, I lived and volunteered in the local communities of Karanga and Moshi, in northern Tanzania.

In Swahili, the word 'safari' means 'travel'. And while the word does bring to mind images of Jeeps filled with khaki-clad tourists, it also means 'journey'. This is my personal safari... free of khaki and binoculars (for the most part).

Karibu, asante!


Friday, July 30, 2010

Wednesday, July 21

5:30 p.m.

I am sitting on the second-story veranda, gazing north. Mt. Kilimanjaro is showing a little of herself today: the summit is just barely visible above the cloud layer, almost indistinguishable. Not like yesterday. She was in full glory, and quite honestly, I had to remind myself to breathe. Got some amazing pictures. I may look into a day hike on Kili, just to say I climbed the Roof of Africa, at least part of the way. Right now, the sun is setting. Some of the girls are playing soccer in the road with the neighborhood kids. Their laughter echoes over the hedge; their great time is obvious. I want to join them, but I have to get this down first.

Today we went to visit a woman named Valeria Mruma, the founder and executive director of WEECE (Women's Education and Economic Center), just outside of Moshi. She started the organization from nothing but a desire to see changes in Tanzanian culture with regards to the treatment of women. Looking around the clean and freshly-painted complex, with a staff of seven and a well-established and self-sustaining microloan system, I see everything that Mama Nancy wants to achieve for Kiwodea. I am also encouraged--WEECE's successes are the result of long years and very hard work. Mama Mruma was able to develop a project plan and attract overseas funding sources. Her loan program is more sustainable, as members each contribute small amounts into a general fund, which (over time) turns into a larger loan-sized net amount. She also focuses on skill development and education. I wonder of Mama Nancy would be open to considering some of these ideas for Kiwodea.

Mama Valeria greeted each of us with a tight bear hug to end all hugs. She is a large, robust woman who is quick to laugh and make others laugh. We spent some time talking about her organization and the dire need that exists in Tanzania to provide education to--and recognize the rights of--women, especially those living in poorer, rural areas of the country. Right now, these women are marginalized by the patriarchal hierarchy in place, and there have been limited efforts by the Tanzanian government to effectively address the issue: very obviously seen in a lack of government-funded/sanctioned women's programs or shelters, and no action taken to amend weak laws regarding spousal abuse.

And so, people like Valeria Mruma and Nancy Tesha step up, get creative, and make valuable resource centers for women out of four walls and a roof.

11:00 p.m.

Tonight was the Kiwodea Dessert Night fundraiser, a project that Katie, Spencer and Regina have been working on for the past week, and that I walked into a few days before its culmination. Held at Mama Nancy's house, we baked cupcakes, chocolate cakes and fudge brownies and invited CCS volunteers from both the Karanga and Moshi houses. Over 30 people came! Our Western sweet tooths and the draw of authentic "sweet dessert"--very rare in Tanzania--must have had too big a pull to resist. We also had local wine (made by the women members of Kiwodea) and a special "punch" made from mango juice, Mama Nancy's home-brewed banana wine, and a Tanzanian specialty gin called Konyagi. Yowzah.

All in all, a raging success. The women set up a mini "store" with items for sale from the Kiwodea store, and the night's proceeds netted over 400,000 Tsh! Enough to fix some electrical problems at the center, paint two classrooms, and keep some money in the bank for future microloans (something that hasn't happened in a few years). Success tastes sweet.

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